tropical hiker story
By Dolores Bennett from the Gold Coast, who did the Tropical Hiker walking holiday in August 2008
MY TROPICAL HIKER ADVENTURE
How does one escape the cold southern winter & indulge in some exercise as well?
Join Monica & Phil Coleman of ‘Auswalk Walking Holidays’ for their Tropical Hiker adventure!
A welcome gust of warm air greeted all aboard the Virgin Blue ‘bird’ of the skies on arrival in Cairns on August 1 2008. Smiling broadly my friend Sally greeted me with the typical Aussie phrase, “g’day mate”. We then spent 2 delightful days together, and no, our jaws didn’t ache.
SUNDAY August 3
I met my fellow walkers at the Hotel Cairns. Our group of 15 included:
Josef, Lutgardis, Luc & Lut from Belguim. Philip, Caroline & Mary from New Zealand. Tas
from Sydney also Jane. Alison & Robin from Canberra. Christine & Anne from Perth. Helen form Melbourne & me from The Gold Coast. Last but not least our guides & mentors for the next 8 days, Monica & Phil. Other then our feet the mode of transport was a mini bus, ‘Rosa’. Following introductions, depositing luggage, & filling our snack bags(most of it healthy, & some a wee bit sinful) it was off to explore the Flecker Botanical Gardens. It was here I learned that the aboriginals used the long narrow Pandanus leaf to cure headaches. Wrapped around the head the tiny prickles act as a type of acupuncture. In the afternoon it was a fairly challenging a hike to the summit of Mt Whitfield, along the way negotiating a myriad of exposed tree roots & rocky outcrops. We were rewarded with views of the Baron River mouth, mountainous coastal terrain & Cairns Airport! At the completion perspiration drenched brows & empty water bottles were evidence of our hard work! Dinner at the Hotel Cairns that evening was a congenial affair as we chatted amicably whilst getting to know each other.
MONDAY August 4
Following a hearty breakfast we boarded Rosa for the scenic coastal drive to Mossman. Stops along the way allowed the ardent photographers of our group to indulge in their passion. It took me the 2 hour trip to remember how to use my fairly new digital. Gone are the days when all I did was aim & click! Mossman is a service town for the surrounding agricultural industry with friendly locals & good coffee. Carved out of the granite mountain range by the Mossman River, Mossman Gorge provides a comprehensive introduction to tropical rainforests. Next it was an educational stroll in the rain forest with Robert, a prominent local aboriginal guide of the Kuku-Yalanji people. A spiritual man, Robert told us about the local traditional way of life, the Dreamtime, rainforest foods, medicine & shelter. Included in his talk was a snippet about a highly hallucinogenic drug. I asked him for more information about it & was informed only the medicine man had full knowledge & he was away! I bet our drug dealers would love to get their hands on some if that. Tea & damper followed accompanied by some didgeridoo playing. It was then on to Mossman Gorge where we had a picnic lunch beside a beautiful tropical stream complete with several families frolicking in the water. The lush green canopy of the rainforest afforded protection from the sun & helped maintain a comfortable walking temperature, especially for the Belgians not used to our warm climate.
It was then all aboard Rosa for our drive to the Daintree River crossing. For the ill informed one could have been lured into a false sense of safety, not a crocodile was sighted whilst waiting for the car ferry or crossing the river. Named after an Englishman Richard Daintree, the region has been recognised as one of the most diverse & significant rainforests on planet earth. It was then on to Lync-Haven Retreat, our abode for the night. Enroute, spot the cassowary proved to be fruitless, much to the disappointment of the New Zealanders. On inspecting my cabin style accommodation I found the bed lamp had no light bulb. Further investigation located 3 other lights had suffered the same fate, I guess someone somewhere now has a surplus. Following a tasty dinner on the restaurant verandah a local with a carpet snake arrived to entertain us. Not being one of my favourite creatures I made a hasty retreat & was soon in bed reading with the aid of the bed lamp & its new light bulb. A pre breakfast stroll took me to Lync-Haven’s native animal sanctuary, through a beautiful pocket of heavily vegetated rainforest & back to the restaurant in time some yummy tucker.
TUESDAY August 5
Heaven shared its spoils & provided perfect weather for the day’s adventure. Spot the cassowary was on again, however to no avail. The Cape Tribulation Walk, included some beach walking & the Dubuji Braodwalk. With the sparkling ocean lapping softly on the sand, & a gentle cooling breeze our relaxed group chatted happily whilst enjoying winter in Far North Queensland. A picnic lunch at beautiful Thornton Beach included a swim for those who so desired. These days it has to be heatwave conditions before I go swimming. Rosa then transported us back across the Daintree towards Mossman & the Bump Track. This track follows the route taken by early gold miners away from the coast & up onto the Atherton Tablelands. We were warned it was steep & offered an easier option. I decided if a man pushing a wheelbarrow loaded with mining tools, camping equipment, food & the other essentials for life could reach the top so could I. In warm sun with no sea breeze we bravely began our ascent. It was onwards & upwards, onwards & upwards. Just when I was about to expire the luxury of a small downhill section presented accompanied by a creek crossing. Here a short break to recharge the batteries was welcomed by all. Then it was onwards & upwards again for a short time before the track became undulating terrain. I’m proud to say our group did it in 1 hour & 55 minutes. The brochures indicate it as being a 2½ hour walk! Monica & those who took the easier option joined us at the top, & soon we were all putting our seat belts on for the journey to Yungaburra.
Twilight had become dark by the time we reached the heritage village of Yungaburra, somewhat cooler then the coast. A fun evening followed with dinner at a nearby Swiss/Italian Restaurant where Nick the owner entertained guests singing & playing the piano accordion. Shy me even marched to ‘I Love To Go A Wandering”!
WEDNESDAY August 6
Early next morning it was down to Peterson Creek to see the platypus. I think they must have heard us coming & went into hiding, however some of our group returned at dusk & were rewarded with several sightings. The delightful motel owners, Gary & his father Derrick served breakfast in the Gazebo, the barbecued locally made sausages were the best I’ve ever tasted (not good for the cholesterol though). As the morning unfolded we travelled through dairying country stocked with a plentiful supply of healthy cows grazing peacefully in the paddocks. The city dwellers amongst us were excited to see some kangeroos & jabirus. A morning of short walks took us to see the huge Curtain Fig tree, Dinner Falls, & the mysterious crater lake from the Mt Hypipamee Walk. In the afternoon we walked around Lake Barrine. While looking at a tortoise from one of the viewing platforms Jane’s hiking stick decided to go for a swim. Some of us excitedly discussed how to retrieve it, Tas climbed over the rail & with the encouragement of our group tried reaching for it. In the meantime, cool calm & collected Robin found a branch with a forked end, handed it to Tas & the errant hiking stick was soon returned to its grateful owner. Later some of our group decided to explore Yungaburra village, while others did the Lake Eacham Circuit, I opted for the latter. My memory deceives me at present for I know there was a punt on how long the circuit would take me to do & now I can’t remember the times involved. Dinner was not included that evening, so 8 of us met at the historic Yungaburra Hotel for another fun evening. Following drinks at the bar we adjourned to the yesterday’s era dining room for a hearty meal.
THURSDAY August 7
Following breakfast in the Gazebo we waved goodbye to our hosts Gary & his father Derrick, both handsome ‘spunky blokes’. The morning included a visit to the best waterfalls on the tablelands where the sparkling sunshine on tumbling water enhanced the natural beauty of Malanda Falls, Milla Milla Falls, Zillie Falls & Ellinjaa Falls. We then embarked on a 3 hour rainforest walk which included lunch at Nandroya Falls along the way stopping to identify various plants & a few birds. During one of these stops Phil from New Zealand was bitten by something. Was it a spider? Was it an ant? Whatever it was stung! Fortunately his immune system was in good working order & he survived to enjoy a picnic lunch. Our next venture was a hike criss crossing the river to see Wallicha & Tchupala Falls. Having to wade through the river with its uneven rocky bed did not appeal to me so I decided on the easier option of a tract walk. When we all met up again I noticed some of the vertically challenged folk of our group had wet shorts & very wet shoes. We then boarded Rosa for the drive down to the coast, destination Mission Beach. Along the way we stopped at the Fan Palm Board Walk for an easy stroll through a forest of Licuala palms in the hope of spotting a cassowary. After this the New Zealanders surmised that cassowarys were just a figment of Aussie’s imagination or plastic. Castaways Resort our accommodation for the next 3 nights overlooked Mission Beach & across the water Dunk Island. Stunning!
FRIDAY August 8
Following a short drive to South Mission Beach it was ‘Slip, Slop & Slap’ before commencing our part rainforest part beach walk to Tam O’Shanter Point & Kennedy Bay. I think the cassowaries were playing spot the humans again. Kennedy Bay, known for its popularity amongst the crocodile population, appeared to be devoid of the critters, so ugly only a mother could love them. Our Far North Queensland sun had caught up with Lut & Lutgardis the Belgian girls for I noted their legs & arms had gone from white to a warm rosy pink. One hopes it was not too uncomfortable. Three & a half hour’s later we arrived back at Mission Beach to do battle with the wind whilst having lunch. Just as I was settling down to eat a gust of wind commandeered my lettuce & salami which were never to be seen again. We then had the option of a beach walk or a ride in Rosa back to our accommodation. A few kilometres along the road & our guide Phil remembered he had left his backpack(containing valuables) at the lunch spot. So it was about turn. Now the saying, “One good turn deserves another” was so true that afternoon, for when we came in view of the lunch spot there was the Victorian cyclist whom Phil & Monica had given the leftovers to waving at us with Phil’s backpack at his feet. One valuable backpack reunited with its relieved owner & it was on the road again. Passing the Scout Hall, Lut spotted 2 real live cassowaries, much to the delight of us all. If my memory serves me correctly New Zealander’s Phil & Carolyn had opted for the beach walk & had to be content to view our photo images. Later Mary, Anne & I explored the village of Mission Beach, indulged in coffee & cake, then checked out the eating houses before deciding on a place for dinner as it was a free evening. Another enjoyable meal together followed, with much laughter emanating from our table resulting in curious looks from other diners.
SATURDAY August 9
After breakfast it was an hours walk to the jetty where we caught the ferry for a rough journey to Dunk Island. The swell was such that I felt as if I was on a cork splashing about in a washing machine. I shudder to think what others thought of the expletives that escaped my via my vocal chords. I was amazed the young Canadians sitting opposite me thoroughly enjoyed the ride. Dunk Island, 4 km off the coast is one of Australia’s most beautiful island national parks. The lush vegetation is home to prolific insect & bird life in this pulsating world of greenery. During the 10km walk around the island some brilliant blue Ulysses butterflies graced us with their presence, I was too slow with my camera & didn’t catch one on film. Following lunch at the café there was free time, some enjoyed a swim, I enjoyed an ice cream, a short walk & some people watching. Thankfully the return trip to the mainland was SMOOTH. Prior to our final dinner in the resort’s Zestivale Restaurant Monica presented us all with a special award certificate, mine for ‘Entertaining the Troops’. I think they enjoyed my jokes.
SUNDAY August 10
Breakfast was tinged with a little sadness that our holiday was over. We had become a caring friendly group who respected each other, however as the saying goes, “All good things come to an end” & so it was when we arrived back at the Hotel Cairns. Following fond farewells I walked to my friend Sally’s. That afternoon we went for a drive around Cairns, then uncorked a bottle of red, turned on the telly & watched the women’s road cycling of the Beijing Olympics. After all that peddling we decided to dine out at an Italian Restaurant we had enjoyed a meal at 11 years ago with the loves of our lives before they both went to heaven. While walking to our venue it was a pleasant surprise to meet Anne, Helen & Mary on the restaurant strip, they had decided to have Thai.
MONDAY August 11
Following take off the Virgin Blue ‘bird’ of the skies headed south. I was on my way home. Auswalks ‘Tropical Hiker’ adventure had been food for my soul, I felt truly rejuvenated.
By Ann Smith from Perth, who did the Tropical Hiker walking holiday in August 2008
We started off from Cairns on a bright sunny day.
There were 15 of us turned up. Quite a mixed bunch.
Three from New Zealand, four from Belgium, one from Melbourne, two from Canberra, one from Queensland, two from Sydney, two from Perth and of course our trusty guides Monica and Phil.
We topped up our lolly bags each morning to keep up our strength on the track.
And the thought of Monica's lunches put a spring into our step.
The evening meals were just as nice and I'm sure some of us will feel the extra weight we carry will not be in our packs!
The elusive cassowary caused a few concerns, but just as we thought it wasn't to be,
Phil deliberately left his pack behind so we had to return to the beach.
One of our Belgian walkers spotted them, not one but two, in a paddock feeding.
Are you sure they're not plastic I asked, as we had seen a few of those!
Oh what a sight as our cameras clicked.
Dolores kept us entertained with jokes along the way and
No one dared be late when Caroline counted heads!
Jane had the back door sussed and a gentle kick did the trick,
While Tas kept us laughing with his humour and his wit.
There were the striders, plodders and the inbetweens.
But we all made it to the end.
Thanks to Monica and Phil for their care and safe driving.
So we all returned home with lots of stories to tell of our adventures on
"The Tropical Hiker".
To see some pictures taken by Ann on this trip, go to the Tropical Hiker photo gallery.
Want to know more about this fabulous walking holiday? Go to the Tropical Hiker page.
Auswalk Pty Ltd |
4 Red Gum Lease Track |
Halls Gap Victoria 3381 | Australia
Phone +61 (0)3 5356 4971 |
Fax +61 (0)3 5356 4970 | Email info@auswalk.com.au |
